Kununurra - Wyndham
WA

At Kununurra we were able to select our own site at Lakeside Resort Caravan Park given it is still pre-season and we arrived early. We set up on a large grassy area under a big shady tree not far from the lake and away from other campers.

Over the previous few nights we had been getting bitten in bed so I stripped off the bedding and threw it all into washing machines, pillows included, then insect sprayed the mattress and surrounds. Washing on the line and Brian's work done we headed into town for a look around.

The town is bigger than we expected, way bigger than Katherine with a lot more commerce and industry. We drove around, did some shopping, came back for lunch, read and mooched then mid afternoon did some exploring - checked out the river, boat ramps, surrounding countryside with massive mango orchards and climbed the rocky pinnacle that overlooks the town.

It is a pretty town in a rugged, burnt orange and green sort of way. While the area is predominantly flat it is dotted with big rocky outcrops close into town and huge escarpments in the distance. James loved the walk up to the lookout as he was allowed off the lead and once back at camp he was quite settled despite yet another relocation. He happily sat on the green mat outside with us, no tether, and watched the bird life at the edge of the lake. 

By 5.30 it was dark. It’s weird to lose and hour and a half in 270 km. It was really hot and muggy so we had the air on. The park has a lovely outdoor bar area so we shut James in the cool van, closed all the curtains and went for a drink. That was a treat!

Next day we drove out to Gibb River Road to see if we would be comfortable to take the van over it and were surprised to find that it is sealed all the way to the Emma Gorge and El Questro entrances. There are lots of water crossings but they were fine. The massive escarpments out there are stunning. We decided we would definitely go out there after we have been up to Wyndham.

After lunch we headed off to Ivanhoe Crossing about 10 km out of town. This is the original crossing point over the Ord River and fishing here is apparently good. The water over the crossing was flowing really fast and it was surprising to see fishermen standing on it in knee deep water knowing there were crocs nearby. The water level was quite high and unfortunately it was too fast flowing to fish from the bank – and we weren’t about to wade out into it – so no barra for dinner that night!

On our last night at Kununurra we rode the bikes up to the Pumphouse for a couple of drinks. That was fun. It is a lovely spot that hangs out over the lake. It appears to be an old pumping station that has been turned into quite an upmarket restaurant and alfresco bar. We sat on the deck and watched the sunset on the escarpments behind town. All the time we were there a fresh water crocodile floated in the water below the deck while water skiers passed by.

We left Kununurra around 9.30 Thursday heading north to Wyndham. Marie and Ross, friends who had travelled the area last year, recommended we stay at Parry Creek Farm rather than the Wyndham Caravan Park. We arrived late morning at Parry’s after turning off the highway 20 km   south of Wyndham and travelling 8 km along a well formed dirt road.

The farm is lovely - a few well maintained acres fenced off from the surrounding wetlands and bush. The sites are set among small trees on mown grass. We were the only ones there aside from a small tent at the other end of the property. The bird life in the area is abundant. There are so many bird calls that we have never heard before and the place offers a sense of remoteness and serenity that is delightful. There is a walking track through the property and a suspended walk way that goes from the restaurant out over a large water-lily (and croc-infested) billabong. James stayed on a lead!

Around 3 we headed into Wyndham. It's a very small and basic place - certainly no tourist destination and not what you would call an attractive town. We drove around and at low tide walked out onto the new and very big (high) floating jetty that adjusts to the 8 metre tidal fluctuation. We then headed up to Five Rivers lookout on the hill above town and had spectacular views of the West Arm of the Cambridge Gulf and surrounding rivers.

Before heading back to Parry's we refuelled in town getting the cheapest fuel we had seen for weeks at $1.67/lt.

Yesterday morning we got up early so we could drive up to Five Rivers Lookout to catch the high tide. Given the huge variation from the low tide of Thursday we expected to see a big difference in the seascape below us. The floodplains and mangroves were certainly flooded but not as much as we thought.

On the way to the lookout we came across a five foot snake on the track. He eyed the car off and after a bit decided to head into the grass at the side of the road. This prompted a sizey lizard to hastily vacate that space and without paying any attention to us only a few metres away he kept a very close eye on his predator, even getting up on to his back legs to see exactly where it had headed to. He didn't move even when we drove off.

After the lookout we decided to head down the King River road and try to pick up the King river to ascertain fishing suitability. Well, that was one rough ride! We made 11 km in god knows how long before deciding the Beast, the boat and us had been shaken to the point we just couldn't do it any longer... and did a uey. (I know... toughen up princesses....you're in the outback!)

After lunch back at the van we left James on the bed in the air-conditioning and headed 29 km south along Parry Creek Rd (track is a better description) to Mambi Island which is actually just a boat ramp on the lower Ord River. At this point in our travels we are suffering a bit of barra-deprivation given we were all psychologically geared up for Daly.

Mambi is a known fishing spot and we thought we might be able to fish from the bank like at Big Horse. The river looked promising - wide and clear and very fishable. There were 3 guys camped riverside with a boat. We had a chat and learned they had caught a Barra that morning and had also seen a couple of really big crocs near the ramp. Brian got the rods out and we ventured toward the river. Brian did 2 casts while I stood high on the ramp. Not happy Jan..... it's a bugger being a princess!

So, still no barra. Back at camp we consider our options. We could go back to the ramp tomorrow and put Brian's life at risk putting the tinnie in and have a whole day fishing...or...El Questro is on the Pentecost River which is supposedly teeming with barra.

It’s now Saturday morning and we are off to El Questro!